Tag: Italy

Pursuit of Italy- book review

February 22, 2023

With such a vivid, proud, and inspirational past, Italian history is something that can never be considered boring or stodgy. Yet in Pursuit of Italy, David Gilmour takes this in a different direction by arguing that Italy’s fractious and fascinating history resulted in a nation that was almost incidental.

Almost every aspect of Italy, from its geography to its famous Middle Ages city republics to its bickering modern politicians, means that its nationhood is illogical, argues Gilmour. He takes readers on a ride through Italy’s past, from the Roman era to the city republics to the late 20th century. Along the way, there is the magnificent Renaissance period where art, science, and culture flourished despite constant chaos and warfare, the creation of Italy as a nation state in the 19th century Risorgimento, and the descent into fascism under the rule of Benito Mussolini and fighting alongside Hitler’s Germany in World War II.

Gilmour also introduces numerous military leaders, revolutionaries, artists, and statesmen including the composer Verdi, Guiseppe Garibaldi who fought and brought about a unified Italy, and Camillo Benso de Cavour, who also played a pivotal role in the formation of Italy and was compared to Bismarck.

Given that Italy did not exist as a country until the 19th century, Gilmour focuses a lot on specific Italian states including Tuscany (of which Florence is the capital), Lombard (whose capital is Milan), the Papal States, and Venice, which existed as an independent kingdom with a naval empire for numerous centuries before being seized by Napoleon Bonaporte. I can’t help but feel sympathy for Italy, which for centuries was invaded, ravaged and dominated by neighboring powers like France, Spain, and the Hapsburg Empire.

However, the chapters on modern post-World War II Italy are quite interesting with political turmoil, domestic terrorism, corruption, the mafia, and even an economic boom. The rise of Silvio Berlusconi, a flashy business and media magnate who became premier multiple times and can be seen as a precursor to Donald Trump, is also covered,.

Gilmour’s main argument (and his conclusion) is a bit harsh because there are of course many countries that could be considered to be more illogical and chaotic. In a sense, the fractiousness of Italy results in a diversity that is fascinating compared to centralized states like France or the UK.

Italian Ways- book review

June 5, 2022

I had thought Italian Ways was about traveling across Italy by train, but it is more than that. The book is about journeying by train, both for work and for travel, as a way of life and understanding the country, according to author Tim Parks, an English professor who has resided in Italy for decades, and indeed, this is a lofty objective to put on the humble train.

As somebody working in Milan but residing in another city, Verona (of Romeo and Juliet fame), intercity transit is a regular journey for Parks. This is the first part of the book, in which Parks describes every aspect of taking the train from the stations, buying the tickets, the different types of tickets and train services, as well as the actual journey itself. There are absurd situations involving using different tickets on various trains, and having to verify one’s ticket before getting on, which involves a hefty fine if it’s not done, as some unaware and hapless foreigners have found out.

Through these situations, Parks highlights quirky or annoying aspects of Italian life that gives readers a taste of what it is like to be living in the country as opposed to visiting. There is the crafty furbo or “sly one” who sneaks into ticket lines and loves breaking rules, and his nemesis, the pignolo, an authority figure like a ticket inspector who is adamant at applying rules even when unwarranted. There is also a history of the Italian train service and its labor and organizational characteristics.

Parks then describes the high-speed intercity train from Milan to Rome, which debuted in 2008 and offered a faster and more modern mode of train travel. For this chapter, he writes about his trip from Milan to Florence to curate an exhibition, and what is significant is not how smooth or fast the journey was, but a dispute with a ticket inspector over a technicality that ends in him departing the train before his destination.

Finally, Parks travels to the deep south of Italy to Sicily and Calabria on a holiday. In these parts, the train service is significantly less reliable and efficient than that in the wealthier north, an example of the country’s inequality and the state’s neglect of the south. But there is more to the south than underdevelopment. Parks highlights the communal medieval town centers of Taranto and Bari, and the illustrious history of the town of Crotone, which was one of the main Greek settler colonies in Italy, which were collectively called Magna Grecia, over 2,700 years ago.

One issue is that sometimes there is a bit too much detail to absorb such as when Parks describes the interior of train stations, their cafes, and different ticket counters. It also would have been better if the third part about his traveling to the south had been longer and the first part shorter.

It’s clear that Parks has a strong affection for his adopted country, having spent decades in Italy. However, it seemed to me that his intention of using train travel as a metaphor to represent the country is not fully realized. What Italian Ways does well is to take an essential part of Italian life and highlight the quirks, charms, complications, and humanity of the country.

Best books about European countries (and rivers)

May 10, 2022

Over the past few years, I’ve become more curious about Europe and have read a number of books about European countries such as the Netherlands, Italy, Germany, and France. I’ve also read about the Rhine and the Danube rivers, which flow across Europe from the western and eastern ends respectively. So in random order, here are ten great books about Europe that I’ve read.

Why the Dutch are Different– Ben Coates
The Netherlands might be small but it is an incredibly fascinating country that does not often get enough attention. Going beyond the stereotypes of windmills and dykes (though these also do appear), the author, who lives in the country with his Dutch wife, packs history, culture, travel, and commentary on the current state of the country. Among the issues he explores are the country’s north-south religious divide, its illustrious past that saw it rival the British in naval prowess and exploration at one point, and its multiculturalism which presents challenges with integration and religious tolerance. It is an entertaining and informative book about a country, that, in Coates’ own words, “for all its faults, was happier than Britain, more efficient than France, more tolerant than America, more worldly than Norway, more modern than Belgium, and more fun than Germany.”

Pursuit of Italy– David Gilmour
Providing a compelling history and commentary about Italy, this book’s author actually argues that Italy does not make much sense as a country. But by featuring the country’s great history, its disparate cities and regions such as Venice, Milan, Florence and Napoli, its messy politics, and military misadventures, Gilmour presents a great showcase of one of the most fascinating countries in Europe and the world. Note: The review will be posted soon.

Germania– Simon Winder
Though a country with a stern reputation, this is as irreverent and jaunty a book about Germany that one can possible read. Part history, part travelogue, part commentary, Germania tells the story of Germany from Roman times to the 1930s, which is when, as we all know, things take a very dark turn. Just like Germany, was for much of its history was a bunch of kingdoms, states and cities, the book seems like a disorderly and slightly confusing jumble of chapters, but as a whole present an engrossing picture. There is substantial parts about military and political history such as the Holy Roman Empire, and the rivalry with France, as well as World War I.

France- A History from Gaul to de Gaulle – John Norwich
As the title says, this book tells the story of France from 58 BC all the way to the mid-20th century. Not too long in length, the book flows through 2,000 years of French history by focusing on kings, wars, revolutions, and turmoil, revealing France to have a much more bloodier past than most would expect. Famous leaders like the “Sun King” Louis XIV, Napoleon Bonaporte, and Charlemagne feature, as do less well-known but still important kings like Louis VI “the Fat” and Philip IV “the Fair.”

The Italians– John Hooper
A book focusing on the people and society of Italy, the Italians is full of fascinating and quirky insights and details about a very colorful and complex country. The author, a British correspondent based in the country, looks at everything from geography to corruption to football to gender and family norms. While travelogues usually let you experience what it feels like to visit a country, this book gives you a glimpse of what it would be like to live in Italy. And yes, that this is the second book on this list about Italy is not an accident.

Engel’s England– Matthew Engels
While not exactly a travelogue, Engel’s England does actually cover the entirety of England, specifically 39 counties and London. Engels is a born and bred Englishman, so he brings the perspective of a local getting to grips with his own country. In this sense, there are some peculiar things that non-English people like myself might not really understand such as local (by this, I mean very local as in village or county) customs and festivals. Engels truly does cover off the beaten track, mostly foregoing major cities in favor of the surrounding countryside villages and small towns, which gives the book a lot of character.

Swiss Watching– Diccon Bewes
I have to admit Switzerland has never seemed that interesting to me, but after reading this book, that opinion has changed slightly. The author looks at the country’s history, explains its politics, especially its referendums, and points out the complexities of its multilingual society. He also covers fun stuff like travel, cheese, and the nation’s most famous literary character. Whether you are fascinated with Switzerland or not, you will learn insightful and fascinating facts and stories about it.

The Danube– Nick Thorpe
Flowing from the Black Sea westwards along much of Eastern Europe to Germany, the Danube is one of the world’s most well-known rivers. Traveling along the river through nations like Romania, Ukraine, Hungary, Serbia, and Czech Republic, Thorpe produces an account that is both somber and riveting, highlighting both national histories and individual stories of hardship, tragedy and resilience. Prehistoric European cultures, Roman ruins, crushing defeats to the Ottomans, and the Balkan Wars of the 1990s all feature, as do sturgeon.

The Rhine– Ben Coates
Coates appears again on this list with his second book, about the Rhine, which flows from the Netherlands south and east to France, Switzerland, Austria and Germany. The Rhine might not be that long, but it has played a significant role in the economic and political development of Western Europe, and witnessed along its banks significant events and developments like industrial powerhouses, World War II battles, and numerous significant and interesting cities like Rotterdam, Arnhem, Frankfurt, Cologne, Strasbourg, and Basel. Also, this book might be one of the few where you might read about Liechtenstein, one of the world’s tiniest nations that is wedged between Switzerland and Austria.

Istanbul– Bettany Hughes
If you want to read an entire history book about a single city, Istanbul should certainly be one of the top choices. Not only is it one of the world’s most famous metropolises, but its vast history spans millenia, empires, religions, and cultures, which this book covers. While it is not for certain if Turkey is European, Istanbul’s past as the capital of the Eastern Roman Empire, which then became the Byzantine Empire, and its Latin and Greek heritage, all of which is featured in the book, make it a definite part of European history.

If you enjoyed this list, you might want to check out my older lists of books on countries, and continents.

The Italians- book review

December 16, 2021

Italy is such a fascinating nation that its people and society deserve a whole book to explain it, in this case, The Italians. Covering the country’s people and society, and highlighting their charms, faults and regional differences, author John Hooper, who was based in Italy for The Economist, has produced a very illuminating and captivating book.

Going beyond the most obvious modern aspects of Italy that it’s is famous for such as fashion and football, Hooper highlights the mindset and attitudes that drive Italians and how it has manifested in their politics, religion, behavior, and how women and immigrants are treated. Having been invaded repeatedly by its neighbors such as France and Spain since the Middle Ages and only unified since the 19th century, Italy is a country which prizes stability and order. Somewhat for the same reasons, Italians tend to identify more closely with their hometowns and regions than the country as a whole. Meanwhile, economic inequality between the wealthier north and the poorer south or Mezzogiorno, which also includes Sicily, also fosters a sense of resentment in both. There is also the central region, focused on Rome, which more or less is more moderate and stable.

Hooper provides a wealth of Italian terms in the book including civismo (public spirit), dietrologia (“behind-ism”), mammone (mama’s boy), lettori (non-Italian university lecturers) and brutta (ugly, nasty). Besides politics and history, he goes deep into aspects of daily life like attitudes towards following the rules and laws, family relations, and gender relations. Corruption is also a major topic, which does not provide a flattering image of Italy.

Some of the more interesting insights include that Italians may not like following rules but they do adhere to conventions, and the concept of dietrologia, which means figuring the real motive behind an action. Hooper also claims Italians place a lot of importance on external appearances and style, which does fit with the stereotype. However, at times Hooper seems to rely too much on personal observations to justify generalizations such as that Italians never get too drunk or that Italians are reluctant to be seen when they are seriously ill or pregnant.

While Italy might be a fantastic country to visit and travel around, living there seems to be another matter. But that is the point of a book like this, to go beyond the cliches of a country and shine a light on how its people and society live and function.

Milan travel- mighty Sforza castle and Roman-era basilica

November 5, 2018

Sforza Castle, Milan, Italy
Milan might be Italy’s most prosperous and modern city but it also boasts several impressive historical sights. These include the massive Duomo cathedral, Sforza Castle or Castello Sforzesco, and the Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio, a 1,600-year-old Roman church.

Sforza Castle is a handsome brownish-red castle that was built in the 15th century by the Duke of Milan that was one of Europe’s largest citadels at one point. The great Leonardo da Vinci decorated part of the interior. It boasts a central tower that looms high above the walls of the castle, which is built in a quadrangular shape. Inside, the castle is divided into three courtyards, the main one, and the smaller Ducale and Rocchetta.

Nowadays, the castle is also a giant museum complex, housing several connected museums that feature paintings, medieval weapons, musical instruments, tapestries, antique furniture, prehistoric artifacts, and even Egyptian artifacts. There is even the last work of the great Michelangelo, an unfinished marble sculpture of the Virgin Mary carrying Jesus’ dead body.

It is an impressive diverse collection of exhibits that lets you explore the castle, while appreciating great art and artifacts and learning about Milanese history. I do find having museums inside a castle is a great way to make use of such a historic building while allowing visitors to double up on their enjoyment. Even if these museums weren’t in this castle, they would be worth checking out.

The castle is also used as venue for events like a vintage car show that was going on when I visited, which included sports cars from the 1960s and 1970s and antique pre-World War II cars. The castle is in Sempione Park, that also features an aquarium and a modern museum, which unfortunately I didn’t visit.
Milan, Italy

Built in 379–386, the Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio is a Roman-era church that is also brownish-red, similar to Sforza Castle. As befitting one of Milan’s main churches, the basilica is quite elegant with a smooth exterior, which again is similar to Sforza Castle. It features a triangular roof and a portico with arches with an enclosed open courtyard in front of it, flanked by two bell towers on either side. The shorter tower was built in the 9th century while the other one was built in the mid-12th century. Inside, the crypt features the remains of three saints – Ambrose, who the church is named after, Gervasus and Protasus.
Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio, Milan

How to get there: For Sforza Castle, get off at Cairoli Castello subway station on the Red Line or Lanza station on the Green Line.
For Basilica of Sant’Ambroglio, get off at S. Ambrogio subway station on the Green Line.
Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio, Milan
Inside the basilica Continue reading “Milan travel- mighty Sforza castle and Roman-era basilica”

Rome travel- eternal sights

September 19, 2018


Rome is famous for great historic sites such as the Colosseum and the Roman Forum, but what makes it a fantastic city is that there are many more sites across the city. A lot of the sights are close to each other, such as the Colosseum and the Roman Forum and Capitoline Hill, and there are entire neighborhoods or districts that are full of landmarks. A lot of other cities have famous sites but when you visit those sites, there isn’t much to see in the immediate vicinity. In Rome, the famous sites are often next to other interesting sites, and the surroundings are filled with beautiful and historic buildings.

Besides the Colosseum and the Forum, two of Rome’s most well-known tourist attractions are the Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain. Both are east of the Via del Corso, a straight street that was built by the Romans (from the Roman empire, not the present) and within 15 minutes from each other. Unfortunately, they were both undergoing renovations when I was there so it was underwhelming, but still crowded.

The Pantheon is to the west of the Via del Corso, while not far away is the Piazza Navona, a superb square built by the Romans in the 1st century AD and surrounded by historic buildings with an obelisk and beautiful fountains in the center. The Pantheon is a former Roman temple, from 126 AD, with a domed ceiling with an occulus (central hole in the middle of it). It is incredibly well preserved, simply because it has been in continual use as a place of worship.

Crossing the Tiber took me to the Castel Sant’Angelo, a castle built by the Emperor Hadrian in 129 AD. The top of the castle gives you fine views of the River Tiber and the Vatican, with St Peter’s Basilica visible.


The Trevi Fountain, fenced off for renovations but still a crowd-puller

Parthenon, Rome
Pantheon

Outside the Pantheon is the Piazza della Rotonda
Continue reading “Rome travel- eternal sights”

Rome travel- Roman glories

June 24, 2018


It might be long gone but the glory of the Roman Empire still lives on in Rome. Mostly in the form of the city’s most famous attraction, the mighty Colosseum, where gladiators and wild animals fought each other, and the Forum, where Roman senators and leaders used to meet to run their empire, but also numerous other buildings, ruins, castle, and even a 1.5 km road that is still very much in use.

I found the Colosseum impressive as it was built over 2,000 years ago as the Roman equivalent of today’s football stadiums but it was still quite as large as modern stadiums. Obviously, it’s been extensively renovated but it was good to see that the Colosseum is very much still intact. Once inside, you get to walk around the inner bowels and the spectator stands where you can imagine watching gladiators fighting in front of tens of thousands of bloodcrazed Romans.

The Colosseum is next to the Forum, which was the centerpiece of ancient Rome where the government used to meet, but which now exists as an impressive collection of ruins including towering columns, halls, and statues. Next to the Forum is the Palatine Hill, where many rich Romans used to reside.
After you leave the Forum, one can walk straight up the Capitoline Hill to the Piazza del Campidoglio, designed by the great Michaelangelo. A statue of Marcus Aurelius (one of Rome’s greatest emperors and who was in the movie Gladiator) mounted on a horse stands in the middle of a piazza surrounded by three exquisite buildings which house the Capitoline Museum.

My next stop was to fast forward over a thousand years in history to visit a giant hall that pays tribute to the first king of modern Italy, Vittorio Emmanuelle II, who ruled a unified Italy from 1861 to 1878. This massive all-white building fronted by columns looks impressive though apparently some locals feel it looks very out of place and is too extravagant.
From the Vittorio Emmanuelle memorial, one can walk across the roundabout to the Via del Corso, a 1.5 km road which the Romans built. On either side of this straight shopping street are elegant low-rise government and historical buildings, stores, and many lanes. To the east of the Via del Corso are historical structures like the Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain. I know Rome was full of history, but actually being in the midst of all these historical structures that still existed as part of modern neighborhoods and not as isolated sites was a memorable feeling.

It was notable that Rome’s subway was the grimiest and dodgiest one I’d ever taken (Toronto’s TTC subway was previously the dodgiest I’d ever taken). The trains were covered in graffiti and the platforms were slightly dark, which made me feel a little uncomfortable. Fortunately, I encountered no problems.
All in all, this was a fantastic first full day in the Eternal City.



From the Palatine Hill looking over the Forum. The Colosseum is in the back next to the tower.

Piazza del Campidoglio

Some Romans consider this monument to Italy’s first king Vittorio Emmanuelle II a little too grandiose.
  Continue reading “Rome travel- Roman glories”

SPQR- book review

February 20, 2018

Named after the famous initials of the Latin phrase “the Senate and People of Rome,” which was used by the Romans as an official slogan on documents, military banners, public works, and coinage, SPQR – A History of Ancient Rome tells the story of the Romans during their first thousand years as they grew from a small city state to become one of the world’s largest and most powerful empires.

Combining riveting facts, stories and details, Mary Beard, who has been hailed as one of the world’s best Roman historians, looks at different aspects of the Romans from famous emperors to politics and laws to the daily lives of commoners to the nations they conquered. I’ll be honest though, the book was a little tough at times though that was partly because I spread it out over several months.

Beard does well to give readers both a broader understanding of the Roman world and people, as well as an intimate look at daily life. Roman life was both extravagant and filthy, as well as dangerous. Not surprisingly, Rome was a place of great turmoil, strife, political intrigues, and complexity. Somehow, or perhaps because of this, they managed to create a powerful empire. And as the Romans conquered fellow Italians, Greeks, other Europeans and the Middle East and Egypt, they spread their influence and culture. While they considered other people as barbarians, the Romans also allowed elites in their conquered territories sought to copy Roman behaviors, similarly to how people around the world might curse the US and the “West”, but still use their software, buy their brands and ape their lifestyle. SPQR .