Sri Lanka travel- Dambulla Buddhist cave and Peradeniya botanical gardens

Peradeniya Botanical Gardens, Sri Lanka
While Kandy by itself is not that remarkable other than its lively cultural shows and the temple of the Buddhist Tooth, there is a lot of fascinating sites outside of the city. This includes the Dambulla Buddhist cave, an elephant sanctuary with dozens of elephants, and Peradeniya Botanical Gardens. Dambulla is about two hours’ drive, the Pinnawala elephant sanctuary is about an hour away, while the botanical gardens is very close, less than 30 minutes by bus.

Dambulla is a collection of several Buddhist caves filled with Buddhist murals and statues that date back to the first century BC. Located inside a series of caves on the top of a small hill, Dambulla is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a good place to visit along with Sigiriya if you’re going by car (check with your hotel for a driver). There are five caves, differing in size, with Buddhist statues, murals and even stupas. The murals are very beautiful, though in general, I found Dambulla underwhelming. At the foot of the hill is a Buddhist temple with a huge golden Buddha statue.

I’m not exactly a big fan of trees and flowers but I was very impressed by Peradeniya Botanical Gardens, so much that I spent almost two hours there strolling around and taking photos. Not only is it huge and feature a diverse collection of over 4,000 trees, plants, an orchid house, a spice garden, and enormous bamboo groves, but it has a colony of large fruit bats sleeping on several trees. As I visited during the day, those guys were all asleep and it was easy to take pictures of them. It was the first time I’ve seen bats sleeping in the outside during the day and it was a fascinating and slightly uncomfortable sight (not a bat fan too).

There is a central “great circle,” lawns, as well as an avenue shaded on both sides by giant palm trees. Among the most fascinating trees to look out are a giant Javan fig tree, which has a sprawling umbrella-like canopy, and Coco de Mers or double coconut palms, which bear coconuts of 10-20 kg that are the world’s heaviest nut or fruit!
The botanical garden was established in 1821 by the British, though Kandy kings had set up gardens on the site in previous centuries.

I had a slightly unpleasant experience as I was showed around the orchid house by an employee, who then asked for a tip at the end. I didn’t give him much but I don’t like it when people do something for you and then demand money, especially for something like a 5 minute tour of the orchid house, which was included in the garden’s entrance fee. A similar experience would later happen to me in Colombo at the natural history museum and I refused to give a tip (still annoyed over the orchid house guy).

I had a surprisingly pleasant experience when I came upon a bunch of local Muslim youths. They ran up to me and started crowding me, but in a friendly manner. These guys couldn’t speak much English and couldn’t tell me where they were (Sri Lanka! was all they could say) or what school or organization they were but we managed to take a few photos.

Colonial-era building in Kandy
Peradeniya Botanical Gardens, Sri Lanka
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Sri Lanka’s ancient hilltop fortress of Sigiriya

Sigiriya, Sri Lanka
One of Sri Lanka’s most distinctive and fascinating landmarks is the ancient fortress of Sigiriya. Located atop a massive 200m-high column of rock that dominates a vast plain, Sigiriya was built between 477-495 CE (AD) by a king as a refuge during a war with rivals for the throne. Eventually the place became a Buddhist monastery before being abandoned in the 13th-14th century.

Once you enter the grounds, you will get a great view of Sigiriya looming ahead of you. At the sides are pleasant landscaped gardens with terraces and fountains. In terms of wildlife, look out for monkeys, monitors and even peacocks roaming around. On one side of the grounds, there is even a large man-made reservoir that is still in use.

Climbing up the rock takes you past beautiful frescoes of some very voluptuous maidens along the walls. Unfortunately, some of the paintings have been smeared, either through vandalism or an attempt at modesty by overzealous guardians. Near the top, you will reach Lion Gate, a stone staircase flanked by huge lion’s paws, which signifies the final route to the actual fortress on top. A quick climb up this staircase brings you to Sigiriya and magnificent views of the surrounding plains.

The fortress exists as ruins, with much of the base structures intact. It was much larger than I expected, and it is easy to understand why the king, Kashyapa, would build a fortress there. Despite building Sigiriya, he met a sad end because after losing a battle to his half-brother and claimant to the throne, he is said to have committed suicide.

Sigiriya isn’t just a cool site to see, as it’s also an example of Sri Lanka’s over 2,000 years of history, impressive even by Asian standards. Sigiriya is over 90 km from Kandy, which is about a 2.5-hour drive. I visited Sigiriya and Dambulla, a Buddhist cave temple with murals that is over 2,000 years old, on a daytrip from Kandy with a driver which my hotel helped me hire.

Sigiriya, Sri Lanka Sigiriya, Sri Lanka

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Sri Lanka travel- the capital Colombo

Colombo, Sri Lanka

In a country flush with great traveling destinations, Sri Lanka’s capital city Colombo hardly gets any mention. Now, obviously if you’re flying in from elsewhere, chances are you will arrive in Colombo. From there, most people go on to other places like Kandy, Galle, the Hill Country, or to the beach towns along the west and south coasts. That’s actually what I did since I went straight to Galle as soon as I landed in Colombo. I did return to Colombo twice – first to go on to Kandy in the center of the country, then to leave at the end of my trip.

Colombo didn’t impress me much at first. Most of it is built up, but it isn’t as modern as Bangkok nor as charming as Hanoi. It doesn’t boast very famous sights or landmarks. But when I look back at all the places I went to in the city, Colombo is actually a very decent city.

Situated right by the sea, Colombo has a coastal stretch of open ground that faces the sea, the Galle Face Green, that comes alive in the evening with sightseers, couples, and kids flying kites. The city’s major museum, the National Museum of Colombo, has a good collection of historical religious artifacts and is housed in a magnificent colonial-era all-white building. Beira Lake is a serene water refuge in the middle of the city, while the Pettah district boasts one of the most attractive and unique mosques you’ll ever find, the candy-striped Jami-Ul-Alfar Mosque, and a bustling street market. There is also the slightly wacky and impressive Gangaramaya Buddhist temple, as well as Hindu temples with colorful gopuram towers. Last but not least, the Fort business district features entire blocks of stately and elegant colonial-era architecture.

I hardly saw any other tourists at these places, with the exception of the museum and Gangaramaya temple, where there were a few Chinese and Western visitors. Walking around Fort district, I was even approached by a guy from one of the buildings who asked me a few questions. Actually, before this encounter, I did get approached by people several times but they were tuktuk drivers or unofficial tour guides trying to hustle me into going on a city tour. This guy didn’t try to hustle or sell me anything and he was more well-dressed than the touts I’d encountered, so I think he was probably an employee in one of the government buildings wondering what I was doing. At that point, I was basically the only non-local walking around in that area so it was like I had all those colonial architecture to myself.

So if you go to Sri Lanka, by all means visit the beaches, the fortress of Galle, the ancient city ruins and the hilltop fortress of Sigiriya inland, the beautiful hill country, and the national parks. But, make sure to leave some time to explore Colombo too.

National Museum of Colombo, Sri Lanka
National Museum of Colombo, built in 1877
Colombo, Sri Lanka Colombo, Sri Lanka
Gangaramaya Buddhist temple
Colombo, Sri Lanka
Colombo, Sri Lanka
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Sri Lanka travel- the kingdom of Kandy

Kandy Lake, Sri Lanka
The city of Kandy lies in the center of Sri Lanka and can literally and figuratively be considered the country’s heart. As a cultural hub, it is where the island’s most famous festival of  Esala Perahera is held, and where the Temple of the Buddha’s Tooth is located. Surrounded by hills, Kandy also has a feisty side to it, having held out as the island’s last independent kingdom against Portuguese, Dutch and British invaders for centuries until 1815.

Nowadays, Kandy is not a kingdom anymore and though it is the country’s cultural center, as a city in terms of looks it isn’t that remarkable. It is not very big and feels more like a small town. However, it does have a scenic lake in the middle of the city, where the Temple of the Buddha’s Tooth (which contains exactly what the name says) is next to. The lake also boasts a lot of birds such as ducks, herons, and cormorants. There are also several performance venues alongside the lake where you can see a Kandy culture show. These are one-hour evening performances that feature a number of different sets with drumming, singing, a bit of theater, and dancing. The performers are resplendent and dressed in colorful traditional costumes, with the women looking amazing.

The city actually doesn’t have much attractions within it besides the lake and temple, but there are a lot of fascinating sites nearby. These include the ancient hilltop fortress of Sigiriya and the Buddhist cave sculptures of Dambulla are within three hours’ drive from Kandy and can be done in a daytrip (which I did). Meanwhile, the Royal Botanical Gardens is right on the outskirts of the city in Peradeniya (5.5 km, less than 30 minutes by bus) while elephant sanctuaries, tea plantations and spice gardens are within an hour away.

I specifically went to the Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage by tuktuk, which was originally built to house orphaned elephants found in the wild. Over time, the orphanage’s elephants have increased both due to new orphans brought in and births among the orphanage’s elephants (they can never be released into the wild due to being unable to adapt). There is some controversy surrounding this center regarding how it treats its elephants. While I think people need to be very careful regarding elephant tourism, elephant rides are not provided here which is a good thing. One issue I had was that the staff handlers would often ask people if they wanted to take a photo with an elephant for a fee. One highlight is that twice a day, the handlers bring their elephants to a river across the street to bathe. While it is nice to see the elephants bathing in the river, seeing dozens of elephants cross a street is amazing.

Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage

Lookout point
Birds at Kandy Lake, Sri Lanka
Multitude of black and white birds, Kandy Lake
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Sri Lanka travel- thriving Galle Fort

Despite being a small island next to a giant country (parallels with Taiwan), Sri Lanka boasts historical sites, lush mountains, elephants, and beaches. The country is really special for travel; so special that I wrote two articles about it. I mean how many countries in Asia, especially small island nations, can you go on safaris to see elephants in the wild? And the country’s historical sites include both native structures like the 5th-century mountain fortress of Sigiriya and the ancient cities of Poḷonnaruwa and Anuradhapura, as well as the Portuguese-Dutch colonial fortress of Galle. The latter was my first stop during my trip to Sri Lanka a couple of years ago.

Located on the southwestern coast of Sri Lanka, Galle Fort is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that was built in the late 15th century by the Portuguese before later being expanded by the Dutch (who captured Galle from the Portuguese). It is the largest European-build fortress in Asia. Guarding the bay of the town of Galle, the fort lies on a small peninsula and still is home to a residential community of locals and expats. When you come here, you aren’t just looking at sea walls and gun emplacements of a historic fort, but museums, lighthouse, mosques, churches, shops and hostels.

The sea wall of the fort is a great place to look out at the Indian Ocean, especially sunsets, but even better for walking the lanes inside the fort. That’s because the lanes are full of interesting colonial homes, many of which house shops, cafes, and restaurants. The most interesting building I came upon was the Historical Mansion Museum, a former colonial administrator’s mansion, which housed several rooms of antiques and a jewelry workshop. It is free though there is a jewelry gem store on site. If you are not interested, there’s no need to buy anything of course. I also made a quick visit to the Maritime Museum, which besides a mounted whale skeleton had a disappointing sparse collection.

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The India Ride- book review

Two Canadian brothers set off on an 18,000-km motorcycle ride around China in 2010 and succeeded. A couple of years later, they decided to do another epic motorcycle ride around India. The India Ride – 2 brothers, 2 motorcycles, an incredible adventure is the story of this feat of stamina, courage, and most of all, patience. Written by the brothers, Colin and Ryan Pyle, The India Ride details the entire journey which started from Delhi, went northwest along treacherous mountainous roads and to the border with Pakistan, then southwest to Mumbai and the Arabian Sea coast before going back up along the southeast coast up to Bengal and finishing in Delhi again.

The arduous journey was not just a daredevil joyride but a carefully planned expedition that was intended to be fully recorded for a TV show based on the trip. In fact, the brothers were still completing book and television deals for the China trip while preparing for the India trip. The book details the arduous preparations as even before the trip actually began, the brothers had to plan the journey day by day, hire a driver and videographer (the same from their China journey) who followed and filmed them during the whole trip, apply for permits to shoot video at places they planned to visit, and get sponsors.

Not surprisingly, the trip was full of hazardous traffic and road experiences, including a few close calls, mixed emotions, and frustration. India is no cup of tea for visitors, especially ones riding motorcycles around the country. While I’ve never been to India (yet), I’ve heard a lot about the country, which just from afar can seem like an assault on the senses and mind. The brothers’ experiences and insights of India showed the country to be as fascinating, chaotic and frustrating as I’d expected. The brothers don’t hold back in expressing their thoughts on the country, during and at the completion of their journey. Their encounters with locals are mostly positive, such as when a stranger driving by who leads the brothers to a nearby mechanic after one of their motorcycles breaks down on a hilly, rural area.

The book could have been shorter on the planning details at the beginning, and longer on the actual events and sights of the trip. As the main point of the trip was the motorcycle journey and not sightseeing, it is understandable. They do visit some major sights such as the Sikh Golden Temple in Amritsar, the ghats alongside the Ganges River in Varanasi, and major temples. The chapter on the Rat Temple (Karni Matar) in Rajasthan state is a particularly interesting and honest read, though it might put readers off of visiting it. It’s also exactly why I think there should have been more writing about the sights.

The brothers’ India ride was a remarkable journey in a remarkable country, which very few people would ever dare to complete. It is good to see that the journey did not put off Ryan Pyle, the older brother and whose idea it originally was to ride around China, as he would go on to complete another incredible motorcycle ride in Brazil and is still going strong.